Mundury wojewódzkie a renesans polskiego stroju narodowego w epoce stanisławowskiej
Abstrakt
Literary scholars analyzing war theme of oldpolish split-sleeve overcoat and frock coat, notice the phenomenon of rebirth of polish national gown in the second half of XVIIIth century. This renaissance is said to be a triumph of a polish attire. This
popularity was to be a proof of an avertion of “cropped” western models. The author using the records of posthumous inventories on the terrain of the Great Poland in the years 1776–1795, Sejm’s Lauda, sources like journals or iconographic type, tries to answer the question about the character of this renaissance. Have it brought a real rebirth of the “attire”? What role played in it implementation of voivoidship uniforms? Sources unused before at studying the evolution of national attire reveal a wide range of civil and cultural processes that had an impact on its development.
Author tells about cultural codes connected with male clothes of western type (frock coat, cullotte, wig, slippers and cane) and attire of national type ( polish split-sleeve overcoat, high-collared men’s folk jacket, saffi an shoes, belt, sabre and mustache). Western fashion feminized men, while the traditional national model incarnated warrior type — patriot. In the Four Years’ Sejm hour knowingly have been used various types of attire in politics to manifest ones opinion. Meanwhile there was a constant race among the richest of noblemen to manifest wealth and to degrade opponents. This fi ght had its analogue in the lower social ranks, that did not want to stay behind the fashion innovations, usually living beyond one’s means. Omnipresent “excess” in fashion after the first partition started to be connected in slow loss of polishness. Postulates of returning to national attire were seen as one of remedies of defending the country. Top-down standardization was to unify information sent by the gown and bring back security. King Stanisław August Poniatowski introduced first anty-excess act in 1776. Soon it became clear that it left wide possibility to avoid its resolutions on an evryday basis. Not until 1780 was throughly stated which type of cut, fabrics, colors and mercery decorations is acceptable for particular
voivodeships. Analysis of sejm’s lauda showed the progress of implementation of acts resolutions — there were voivodeship’s uniforms introduced in western and national type. Poshumous inventories showed that, more popular were polish type uniforms. Analysis of iconography and inventories of individual senators allow to see the difference between the attire worn on daily basis – western type, while attending the sejm debates or social balls — national type of uniform. The author
proves costumisation of polish national attire, which in consequence of statutory use of voivodeship uniforms achieved the rank of “costume” — parade clothes. Aware
imputation to this type of clothes patriotic contents made impossible to polish dress to function as daily clothes. Paradoxically “cropped” frock coats became that.
popularity was to be a proof of an avertion of “cropped” western models. The author using the records of posthumous inventories on the terrain of the Great Poland in the years 1776–1795, Sejm’s Lauda, sources like journals or iconographic type, tries to answer the question about the character of this renaissance. Have it brought a real rebirth of the “attire”? What role played in it implementation of voivoidship uniforms? Sources unused before at studying the evolution of national attire reveal a wide range of civil and cultural processes that had an impact on its development.
Author tells about cultural codes connected with male clothes of western type (frock coat, cullotte, wig, slippers and cane) and attire of national type ( polish split-sleeve overcoat, high-collared men’s folk jacket, saffi an shoes, belt, sabre and mustache). Western fashion feminized men, while the traditional national model incarnated warrior type — patriot. In the Four Years’ Sejm hour knowingly have been used various types of attire in politics to manifest ones opinion. Meanwhile there was a constant race among the richest of noblemen to manifest wealth and to degrade opponents. This fi ght had its analogue in the lower social ranks, that did not want to stay behind the fashion innovations, usually living beyond one’s means. Omnipresent “excess” in fashion after the first partition started to be connected in slow loss of polishness. Postulates of returning to national attire were seen as one of remedies of defending the country. Top-down standardization was to unify information sent by the gown and bring back security. King Stanisław August Poniatowski introduced first anty-excess act in 1776. Soon it became clear that it left wide possibility to avoid its resolutions on an evryday basis. Not until 1780 was throughly stated which type of cut, fabrics, colors and mercery decorations is acceptable for particular
voivodeships. Analysis of sejm’s lauda showed the progress of implementation of acts resolutions — there were voivodeship’s uniforms introduced in western and national type. Poshumous inventories showed that, more popular were polish type uniforms. Analysis of iconography and inventories of individual senators allow to see the difference between the attire worn on daily basis – western type, while attending the sejm debates or social balls — national type of uniform. The author
proves costumisation of polish national attire, which in consequence of statutory use of voivodeship uniforms achieved the rank of “costume” — parade clothes. Aware
imputation to this type of clothes patriotic contents made impossible to polish dress to function as daily clothes. Paradoxically “cropped” frock coats became that.
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